Different Types of Chefs

I was talking briefly with Rob of Curious Kumquat a couple of weeks ago when he mentioned an online "controversy" about different ways chefs are. He said that the ongoing dialogue was mostly about the usual tired old line that women chefs are nurturing and male chefs were not. This seemed to apply mostly to the food they do as well as its presentation. I said I fit the nurturing model. He said he fit more of the big bold alpha model, though he didn't use those exact words- and I hope if he reads this that he will remind me of how he phrased it, because I remember the gist but not the exact words (and I will quote him here.)

But thinking about it as time has gone by I realized how many different types of chefs I've had the pleasure and misery to work with in my 40 years in the business. Not all of it is about the final product and the dining experience. I've worked with other nurturing male chefs- my favorites were 2 chefs (Bonya- spellimg?- & Sonnenschmidt) when I was a student at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and my late mentor Gordy Brenner- who never went to school but learned the old apprentice method by working in better and better places throughout his life, was a close friend of the family & sat down with me when I told my parents I wasn't going to be a doctor and was dropping out of college for chef school. I've met many a nurturing female chef, though I have increasingly met more who aren't as the years have gone by- though much less frequently than non-nurturing male chefs. Their food and it's presentation did fit the nurturing model.

I've worked with prima donnas who were sometimes as good as they thought and other times were not. Of those who were good, a few would come off of their pedestal- when they were placed there by a loving public- and would actually deign to teach you from time to time. The food they presented was usually big and bold- cutting edge; but that doesn't guarantee it was always good. Of course a nurturing chef can still be a mediocre to bad cook, despite all the good intentions. There were few of them who were nurturers, but it can and does occasionally happen. I usually found that their food tended to the bold with a few down to earth dishes thrown in the menu to keep from scaring the, as we used to call them, non-gourmands off. Of those chefs whose primadonnahood was a matter of their own publicity machine or that of the owner of the restaurant, well  I've never met one who would teach his/her underlings how to improve their skill; though I'm sure some who would must exist simply by the the random chance of the universe. Too many of these self created big names- at least in their own minds- fall into the next category.

This is, in my experience, an almost exclusively male chefs- those threatened by skilled underlings. These are- in the past before Politically Correct behavior was enforced by law as well as convention- the guys who threw knifes at you when they were displeased. They would try to beat you down to elevate themselves, but at the same time were afraid to be shown up.They would try to either secretly or blatantly learn how you did something so that they not only could take the credit, but duplicate it after you left; either of your own free will or by firing- though many made you miserable enough as a way of forcing you to quit. After all, it saved the business from paying out unemployment benefits. I've never met a woman chef with these behaviors, though in this day and age they probably exist. I never lasted more than a couple of weeks with these guys- I'd quit rather than be verbally and potentially physically abused- and was glad that, as far as my experience, there weren't any at the CIA in Hyde Park, NY back in 1977- 1979. If you meet a future prima donna, whether they will be a bastard or one of the good ones, because they will always make sure that they find a reason and way to call attention to themselves. These guys produce food that is almost always cutting edge, often its not very good but people will eat it due to its trendiness until they discover something better.

Another chef I found tough to work for was the one who perpetuated the "War" between the back of the house (kitchen staff) and front of the house (dinning room & bar staff); though sometimes it seemed like some of these chefs teamed up with the front of the house to make war on the customers. I've mostly known men, but a few women as well, who saw life as a struggle to be won on a moment by moment basis. Many a restaurant run this way had high staff turnover, as well as lacking in a reasonable level of repeat diners. I never stayed such places for long. The food could be great, but the atmosphere, even in the dining room, was often tense. It is amazing how many restaurants used to be like this. Since I don't allow it and have been self-employed for 13 of the last 16 years I have no idea how frequent it still is.

There are the burnt out chefs that has lost their passion. These hardly teach at all, though they aren't stingy with their knowledge; they just are going through the motions and need to be badgered to share information and techniques. If your working for one of these you often have the chance to do things your way, though you also end up doing more work than you've signed up for and may be qualified to handle. A similar type of chef is one in "leaving mode"- they are getting ready to retire or have given notice and just don't care any more. The same conditions apply, but for different reasons- the passion might still exist for cooking, but not for the restaurant they are currently at. The food varies by chef in quality and style, but it is often obviously done by rote.

Most chefs are just hard working people looking to earn a living and make sure that their guests have a pleasant dinning experience that they would want to repeat. They teach when they can, shout if they feel that its the only way to get stuff done right and work keeping a smooth running kitchen- and by extension- restaurant. They more often than not succeed- though the greater majority will never get recognition outside of their immediate circle of regular guests and the small local  newspaper. They work their whole lives doing what they like best, never dreaming of a Food Network show or the need to be wealthy, but hoping that one day that statewide or national magazine/newspaper gives them that good review, guaranteeing them a good- if not great- career and living. They do various styles of food, from nurturing to cutting edge, but it's usually good, hardy fare that satisfies the publics' needs and keeps the guests returning.

Finally we get back to the nurturers. Yes, the first female chef I worked with was nurturing. I and some of my closer friends felt a desire to shelter her as she taught us at the CIA. She was the only female chef teaching at the school. I learned a lot from her and enjoyed the Pantry class she taught; which many of the male chefs at that time strongly believed was all a woman chef was good for. My friend Gail (I've always been terrible at names and can't remember Gail's last name nor how she spelt Gayle) and I got to dine at her house. We got to call her by her first name, Lucy; and we respected her skills and felt affection for her. Unfortunately I cannot recall Lucy's last name- I've emailed the CIA asking for it to put it here. More unfortunately, I remember what some of the male teachers and most of the students, (male and female) called her- "Juicy Lucy". I put that name here hoping that someone can give me her complete name so I may honor her. My Bernaise sauce would not be half as good as it is without Lucy's teaching and nurturing; nor would my Monte Cristo and other things she taught us. Many a women chef I've worked with over the years and a lot of men who are just hard working stiffs are nurturing of their staff and guests. Even a handful of prima donnas are. They always include food with a presentation that is comforting as well as often delicious.

By the way, before I am accused of calling each chef who does bold, cutting edge food  a "prima donna," obviously not all are; though in my experience most are. There are always exceptions to each rule. But for those who are prima donnas, I believe they should embrace that side of their personality! Use it the way I use my calling myself, " a good Jewish grandma." It is a significant part of not just my approach to cooking and teaching, but of who I am. It is part of how I "market" myself because it reflects my approach to food and life. Prima donnas should do no less.

There are always chefs who combine aspects of each type. It is only the threatened, non-teaching, legend-in-their-own-mind types who I have no use for. I've fired several of this type- usually just out of chef school. All the others I have been able to work for and with. Thankfully, few of those who helped shape me and my career were anything other than nurturers and good hard working stiffs. It's what I try to be to each employee I've had. I don't always succeed, but teaching and nurturing is my goal for my guests and staff. And, of course, a truly unique dining experience.

UPDATE: I had written to the CIA to get the exact spelling of Bonya's name and the last name of Lucy, but have not heard back. My apologies.

Recipe: Lebanese Beet Salad

One of our most popular dishes, this autumnal salad has convinced many a person who thinks they hate beets that they were wrong. Only use fresh beets, which are coming into season- canned have the taste that most of you who hate beets despise. Pomegranate molasses/paste can be found in specialty and some ethnic grocery stores. Or else you can cook down 1 1/2 cups pomegranate juice until it yields 1/3 cup for the recipe. The brands of pomegranate molasses I like best tend to be darker in color versus redder in color if you have several to compare.

• 2 lbs fresh beets, trimmed
• 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped
• 1/3 cup pomegranate molasses/paste
• 3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbs yellow onion, small diced
• 1 Tbs fresh lemon juice
• 2 tsp fresh mint leaves, chopped
• 2 tsp garlic, minced
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1 pinch nutmeg

1. In a pot large enough to cover the beets with water boil the beets until a pointed knife easily pierces to the center of the largest beet- approximately 40 minutes, depending on the width of the beets. Drain and cool until comfortable to handle, but still warm.
2. Peel the beets by scraping with a paring knife. (The red color of the beets will stain your hand if you don't wear gloves while handling them. Most of the color will wash off immediately, but the rest will be gone within 24 hours. I do it without wearing gloves, but then I'm a restaurant owner and therefore insane.)
3. Cut the beets into 1 " cubes.
4. In a large bowl whisk together all the other ingredients. Add the beets and toss.
5. Allow to marinate at room temperature for 2 hours. Serve then or refrigerate until later.
6. Serve this salad over a bed of mixed greens and garnish it with a little extra chopped fresh mint.

Yield: approximately 2 lbs or enough salad for 6 to 8 servings.

Tastes great cold or at room temperature and will hold in a sealed container up to 10 days under refrigeration.

Travel/Tasting Dinner/Cooking Class- My Next 36 Hours

Tonight I drive to Tucson to do a radio interview Friday morning on "Wake Up Tucson" at KVOI 1030AM- it's at 7:10am Tucson time & 8:10am Silver City time. An ungodly hour considering I usually go to bed around 3am. But being there in person means I can bring some tasters of food for the hosts.

I return to our Friday night 6 Course Spanish Food & Wine tasting dinner. Details at www.silver-eats.com under Events page. Banquet seating at 6:30pm. Reservations recommended.

Then on Saturday morning we have the Complete Meal Cooking Class where we're going to put together a 5 course dinner for family and friends. Expect a  good turn out, but a couple of spaces are still opened.

What this all means is I won't be posting another recipe for a few more days as I catch up with myself. Don't think I could have done this before the CPAP and have done it right.

Thanks everyone for your patience.

Recipe: Harissa Aioli

This recipe combines things you've learned in other recipes on this blog.

Though I'm sure others have thought the way I have, it just seemed to make sense to me to combine French and Moroccan sauces together. Much of that region of North Africa had been French colonies up through the the beginning of the second half of the Twentieth Century. Not a pretty part of history, but an excuse to combine French and 'Moorish' cuisines. Besides, France has a large Algerian population that I'm sure has chosen to do similar fusion of cuisines. And even if they haven't the Spanish have looked back to the time of the Moorish Caliphate and found inspiration for fusing Spanish and North African cuisines, so why can't I also do that with French cooking?!

Harissa is a Moroccan hot paste. Aioli is a French garlicy and lemony mayonnaise. They combine and make a marvelous sauce for meats, fish, cheeses, omelets and even French Fries. Adjust the amount of Harissa up or down from the amount given in this recipe according to your personal tolerances- the following is how we make it in the restaurant.

In a food processor blend:

• 1 cup of mayonnaise, make the linked to recipe on this blog or store bought
• 3 to 4 Tbs Harissa, make the linked to recipe on this blog or use store bought ( found in specialty stores) dependent upon how hot a given batch is
• 2 Tbs garlic, minced
• 1 1/2 Tbs fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 Tbs Dijon mustard

That's it! If you are making the mayonnaise from scratch, make it first and THEN add the other items. Enjoy!

UPDATE: Sorry, I forgot to put the Yield: approximately 1 1/2 cups. Also it will refrigerate and last a good 2 weeks in a sealed jar or container.

Keeping Up with Myself

I've promised several different recipes on this blog and I will eventually do them all, though events and requests are changing the order. There will be a new one soon.

I WILL be on Tucson radio this week- Friday 8/26 on KVOI 1030AM at 7:10am Arizona time/8:10am New Mexico time. The show is "Wake Up Tucson" and it will be broadcast online as well. I'll be there in person, bringing some cold items from our present Summer menu for them to try. Looking forward to it- it 'll be fun. Plus I'll get to do some Trader Joe's shopping while in the big city.

Busy week coming up period. Besides the radio show we have a 6 course Spanish Food & Wine Tasting Dinner later that night. A cooking class teaching people how to cook and serve a 5 course dinner in a couple of hours and  a small catering this Tuesday. I'll be getting only part of Thursday for editing the cookbook since I'll be driving that night to Tucson- for those who don't know Sous chef George and I are each going to a 5 night work week- he has Tuesdays off and I Thursdays.

I'm also working on getting lots of votes for my Carrot Cake on www.getbacktoscratch.com Every time guests agree that its a great carrot cake we ask them to go to the site and vote for it. I find the whole process embarrassing, but in this day and age it seems you need to do such things just to get guests in your door, let alone get recognized as a worthy place to dine.

Oh well, life can be busy, but thankfully its not stressful. See details for any of these events on the restaurant website or on Facebook. Meanwhile, as my brother says, "Live. Love. Laugh." Lif is too short to do otherwise.

Extra Day Off

George and I have started something new this week. He is taking Tuesday nights off and I'm taking Thursday nights off; and we're also sharing the early morning Tuesday delivery check ins by each of us doing every other Tuesday versus me doing all of them. I needed the day off yesterday because I actually didn't feel all that great. But I feel lost having not been there last night, even though it was slow and not much happened. Maybe I have control issues I just didn't realize I have?! I just know I feel like I used to feel when I missed a day of chemistry lab when I was in college- like I missed something important. Oh well, guess I'll have to get over it. Though I didn't feel good yesterday and so did nothing, the extra day off will give me more time to finish editing the cookbook.

Old Friends/New

Because of a fantastic visit from my friend Dondi Dandelion I have begun reestablishing contact with old friends from my days at Twin Oaks Community (an thriving commune from the 1960's). It was so great catching up with her and starting to catch up with old friends via Facebook. This neo-Luddite wouldn't have said this even a week ago, but Facebook ain't too bad. Now to arrange a visit back east, besides to get married next year (on June 5th- our 20th anniversary) in NYC where gay marriage is legal. (Yes, New Mexico law accepts any marriage, even one that cannot be established in NM, as long as it was legal in the state or country it was established in.) Hubby Amberwind has suggested we drive instead of flying next June so that we can catch up with folks in Virginia. If all goes well, that is what we will do. And my ex-wife Thea Putz said that she would try to be there. Now that would be closing a circle.