Different Types of Chefs

I was talking briefly with Rob of Curious Kumquat a couple of weeks ago when he mentioned an online "controversy" about different ways chefs are. He said that the ongoing dialogue was mostly about the usual tired old line that women chefs are nurturing and male chefs were not. This seemed to apply mostly to the food they do as well as its presentation. I said I fit the nurturing model. He said he fit more of the big bold alpha model, though he didn't use those exact words- and I hope if he reads this that he will remind me of how he phrased it, because I remember the gist but not the exact words (and I will quote him here.)

But thinking about it as time has gone by I realized how many different types of chefs I've had the pleasure and misery to work with in my 40 years in the business. Not all of it is about the final product and the dining experience. I've worked with other nurturing male chefs- my favorites were 2 chefs (Bonya- spellimg?- & Sonnenschmidt) when I was a student at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) and my late mentor Gordy Brenner- who never went to school but learned the old apprentice method by working in better and better places throughout his life, was a close friend of the family & sat down with me when I told my parents I wasn't going to be a doctor and was dropping out of college for chef school. I've met many a nurturing female chef, though I have increasingly met more who aren't as the years have gone by- though much less frequently than non-nurturing male chefs. Their food and it's presentation did fit the nurturing model.

I've worked with prima donnas who were sometimes as good as they thought and other times were not. Of those who were good, a few would come off of their pedestal- when they were placed there by a loving public- and would actually deign to teach you from time to time. The food they presented was usually big and bold- cutting edge; but that doesn't guarantee it was always good. Of course a nurturing chef can still be a mediocre to bad cook, despite all the good intentions. There were few of them who were nurturers, but it can and does occasionally happen. I usually found that their food tended to the bold with a few down to earth dishes thrown in the menu to keep from scaring the, as we used to call them, non-gourmands off. Of those chefs whose primadonnahood was a matter of their own publicity machine or that of the owner of the restaurant, well  I've never met one who would teach his/her underlings how to improve their skill; though I'm sure some who would must exist simply by the the random chance of the universe. Too many of these self created big names- at least in their own minds- fall into the next category.

This is, in my experience, an almost exclusively male chefs- those threatened by skilled underlings. These are- in the past before Politically Correct behavior was enforced by law as well as convention- the guys who threw knifes at you when they were displeased. They would try to beat you down to elevate themselves, but at the same time were afraid to be shown up.They would try to either secretly or blatantly learn how you did something so that they not only could take the credit, but duplicate it after you left; either of your own free will or by firing- though many made you miserable enough as a way of forcing you to quit. After all, it saved the business from paying out unemployment benefits. I've never met a woman chef with these behaviors, though in this day and age they probably exist. I never lasted more than a couple of weeks with these guys- I'd quit rather than be verbally and potentially physically abused- and was glad that, as far as my experience, there weren't any at the CIA in Hyde Park, NY back in 1977- 1979. If you meet a future prima donna, whether they will be a bastard or one of the good ones, because they will always make sure that they find a reason and way to call attention to themselves. These guys produce food that is almost always cutting edge, often its not very good but people will eat it due to its trendiness until they discover something better.

Another chef I found tough to work for was the one who perpetuated the "War" between the back of the house (kitchen staff) and front of the house (dinning room & bar staff); though sometimes it seemed like some of these chefs teamed up with the front of the house to make war on the customers. I've mostly known men, but a few women as well, who saw life as a struggle to be won on a moment by moment basis. Many a restaurant run this way had high staff turnover, as well as lacking in a reasonable level of repeat diners. I never stayed such places for long. The food could be great, but the atmosphere, even in the dining room, was often tense. It is amazing how many restaurants used to be like this. Since I don't allow it and have been self-employed for 13 of the last 16 years I have no idea how frequent it still is.

There are the burnt out chefs that has lost their passion. These hardly teach at all, though they aren't stingy with their knowledge; they just are going through the motions and need to be badgered to share information and techniques. If your working for one of these you often have the chance to do things your way, though you also end up doing more work than you've signed up for and may be qualified to handle. A similar type of chef is one in "leaving mode"- they are getting ready to retire or have given notice and just don't care any more. The same conditions apply, but for different reasons- the passion might still exist for cooking, but not for the restaurant they are currently at. The food varies by chef in quality and style, but it is often obviously done by rote.

Most chefs are just hard working people looking to earn a living and make sure that their guests have a pleasant dinning experience that they would want to repeat. They teach when they can, shout if they feel that its the only way to get stuff done right and work keeping a smooth running kitchen- and by extension- restaurant. They more often than not succeed- though the greater majority will never get recognition outside of their immediate circle of regular guests and the small local  newspaper. They work their whole lives doing what they like best, never dreaming of a Food Network show or the need to be wealthy, but hoping that one day that statewide or national magazine/newspaper gives them that good review, guaranteeing them a good- if not great- career and living. They do various styles of food, from nurturing to cutting edge, but it's usually good, hardy fare that satisfies the publics' needs and keeps the guests returning.

Finally we get back to the nurturers. Yes, the first female chef I worked with was nurturing. I and some of my closer friends felt a desire to shelter her as she taught us at the CIA. She was the only female chef teaching at the school. I learned a lot from her and enjoyed the Pantry class she taught; which many of the male chefs at that time strongly believed was all a woman chef was good for. My friend Gail (I've always been terrible at names and can't remember Gail's last name nor how she spelt Gayle) and I got to dine at her house. We got to call her by her first name, Lucy; and we respected her skills and felt affection for her. Unfortunately I cannot recall Lucy's last name- I've emailed the CIA asking for it to put it here. More unfortunately, I remember what some of the male teachers and most of the students, (male and female) called her- "Juicy Lucy". I put that name here hoping that someone can give me her complete name so I may honor her. My Bernaise sauce would not be half as good as it is without Lucy's teaching and nurturing; nor would my Monte Cristo and other things she taught us. Many a women chef I've worked with over the years and a lot of men who are just hard working stiffs are nurturing of their staff and guests. Even a handful of prima donnas are. They always include food with a presentation that is comforting as well as often delicious.

By the way, before I am accused of calling each chef who does bold, cutting edge food  a "prima donna," obviously not all are; though in my experience most are. There are always exceptions to each rule. But for those who are prima donnas, I believe they should embrace that side of their personality! Use it the way I use my calling myself, " a good Jewish grandma." It is a significant part of not just my approach to cooking and teaching, but of who I am. It is part of how I "market" myself because it reflects my approach to food and life. Prima donnas should do no less.

There are always chefs who combine aspects of each type. It is only the threatened, non-teaching, legend-in-their-own-mind types who I have no use for. I've fired several of this type- usually just out of chef school. All the others I have been able to work for and with. Thankfully, few of those who helped shape me and my career were anything other than nurturers and good hard working stiffs. It's what I try to be to each employee I've had. I don't always succeed, but teaching and nurturing is my goal for my guests and staff. And, of course, a truly unique dining experience.

UPDATE: I had written to the CIA to get the exact spelling of Bonya's name and the last name of Lucy, but have not heard back. My apologies.